The end of March was Semana Santa. It means 'Holy Week'- it's the last week of Lent and the week before Easter. During the entire week there are processions throughout the city. Andalucía is famous for extravagant celebrations.
In Granada, there are 'brotherhoods' that are associated with each of the churches which plan and participate each of the processions. Each day has a theme based on the Easter story (Maundy Thursday, Good Friday, ect.). There is a float (or 2 or 3 or 6), a marching band, and any array of other symbols from the Easter story. They take over the entire street, walking through the whole city. Bus routes change, streets close, and the whole city comes out to watch.
We only made it to the Thursday procession since it rained alllllll week. On Friday we hiked up to Sacromonte to see the gypsy procession where they start fires and do a big ceremony, but it was cancelled due to weather. We were so disappointed. So on Thursday, we headed to Plaza Nueva where the procession started but it was PACKED. We couldn't see, we couldn't move, we could barely breathe. So we made our move. Kelsey and I are at the point now where we know all the shortcuts through the city, so we started running through alleys- knocking over strollers, cutting off everyone and anyone in our way, pushing grandmas- and we got to another part of the parade. We started walking the WRONG WAY where the procession was coming, to find the perfect spot. Ok, just picture this- Kelsey and I are running up the street toward the procession- it's like running up the street where the 4th of July parade goes in Albert Lea. Such a social no no! We sat down in front of these people and had front row seats, when this old lady starts jabbing me in the back and freaking out that we are in their spots- I am sitting on the street! It's not like I was in her way! Suddenly, I spotted it. The perfect spot. We crossed the street to this open area, I still have no idea why it was open when the rest of the street was packed, and had front row seats!! It. Was. Awesome.
I know these guys look like the KKK, which I will explain soon. These are called nazareno, which are a penitential robe. It's a tunic, a hood with a cone tip (AKA capirote), and sometimes a cloak, and they vary in color based on the brotherhood. The idea behind the cone tipped hats are so the public can't tell who it is based on height. And they are masked so the people can repent for their sins anonymously. Sometimes they walked barefoot! All of them carried a candle, or a cross like the picture above.
The word on the street (literally) is that the KKK saw a Semana Santa procession and took these costume ideas.
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| The Pontius Pilate platform |
The platforms are massive. I honestly can't describe how huge they are. About a hundred men walk under them to carry them through the city. In the parade we saw, there were 6! It was crazy! For those of you who know what this is, the platforms are about as big as a hay wagon.
Each one has a theme. The procession we saw on Maundy Thursday, had a scene of Pontius Pilate meeting with Jesus, 2 of Jesus carrying the cross, and 3 of the Virgin Mary. Each one was more extravagant than the one before it.
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| The is a show of Jesus carrying the cross, his feet are shackled and everything. |
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| And the platform of Jesus carrying the cross. |
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| One of the Virgin Mary platforms. |
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| The second platform of Jesus carrying the cross. |
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| This is the final Virgin Mary platform. The colors of Mary changed, the first one was white (pictured above), the second was purple, and the final one was blue (pictured here). |
It was such an amazing night. The procession was 3 hours long! Since we were so close, I got to touch 2 of them- the platform showed below, and the final Virgin Mary platform above. It's supposed to bring a blessed year! (So far so good!)
It was such a crazy evening. It just really brought to life what Jesus went through, especially the guy carrying the cross with his ankles chained together.
On Easter Sunday we had some friends over to the residencía to make a big American Easter breakfast. I went to church, came home, and made an obscene amount of food with everyone. It was a great way to spend the day. I know this is way behind, but I hope you had a blessed Easter holiday with good food, good family and friends, and good fellowship!
What an Easter! Christ is risen!
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